Conference Program

Saturday, March 17, 2018
8:30 a.m. Registration and Coffee: 
McNally Amphitheater (140 west 62nd Street)

9:00 a.m. Welcome, Nicholas Paul, Director of the Center for Medieval Studies

9:15-10:00 a.m. Session 1: Plenary I

Chair: Maryanne Kowaleski, Fordham University
Surviving Medieval Garments versus Other Evidence: Disjunction and Corroboration
Gale Owen Crocker, University of Manchester

10: 00-10:15 a.m. Break

10:15-11:45 a.m. Session 2: Concurrent Sessions

2A: CLERICAL MASCULINITY (Room 333)
Chair: Kathryn A. Smith, New York University

Clothing the Archbishop: Church Dress and Vestments in Ravenna between Late Antiquity and the Middle Ages
Maria Cristina Carile, University of Bologna

Redressing the Gesta Abbatum Monasterii Sancti Albani: Geoffrey of Gorham’s Copes, the Life of Christina of Markyate and the St Albans Psalter
Heather Blurton, University of California, San Diego

Medieval Masculinities and the Waterford Vestments
Paul McFadyen, University of Dundee

2B: LUXURY TEXTILES (Room 212)
Chair: Sara Lipton, Stony Brook University

Dressing the Sacred? The Problem of Medallion Silks and Their Use in Western Europe
Tina Anderlini, Independent Scholar

Dress, Identity, and Courtly Culture in Thirteenth-Century Castile 
María Barrigón, Patrimonio Nacional, Madrid

The Cloth as Skin: Cultural Contact and Aristocratic Women’s Work in “Emaré”
Lydia Kertz, Montclair State University

2C: SOCIAL DIFFERENTIATION (Room 334)
Chair: Simon R. Doubleday, Hofstra University

Showing and Creating Status and Gender through Dress in Medieval Sweden and Norway
Eva I. Andersson, University of Gothenburg

(Self) Imposed Indumentary Restrictions in Jewish Iberia in the Late Middle Ages
Eunate Mirones Lozano, University of Salamanca

Dress and Social Differentiation in Medieval Catalonia
Lluís To Figueras, University of Girona

11:45-12:15 p.m. Coffee/Tea Break

12:15 – 1 p.m. Session 3: Plenary II (McNally Amphitheater)

Chair: Jocelyn Wogan-Browne, Fordham University
The Paradoxical Story of the Veil in the Middle Ages
Maria G. Muzzarelli, University of Bologna

1:00 – 2:30 p.m. Lunch (a list of local restaurants will be provided)

2:30 p.m. – 4:00 p.m. Session 4: Concurrent Sessions

4A: MILITARY MASCULINITY (Room 333)
Chair: Suzanne Yeager, Fordham University

Dress and Medieval Jewish Gendered Identities: Young Jewish Men in Northern Europe and the Ideals of Knightly Masculinity.
Eyal Levinson, Hebrew University of Jerusalem

‘Ther is No Man Worthe a Leke… But He Bere a Basilard’: Pointed Male Fashion Statements in the Later Middle Ages.
Richard Hresko, Fordham University

Establishing Cultural Identity through Fashion: The Jewish and Roman Tormenters of Christ in a Polish Devotional Manuscript
John Block Friedman, Center for Medieval and Renaissance Studies, The Ohio State University

4B: HEAD TO TOE (Room 212)
Chair: Brian J. Reilly, Fordham University

Medieval Shoes – Between Functionality and Expression of Identity
Luise Ørsted Brandt, Aårhus University

Insular Art and the Evangelists’ Shoes
Colleen Thomas, Independent Scholar

Bridging Records: Women’s Head-Covering Artifacts in 15th-century Burgundian Visual and Textual Records
Francesca Canadé Sautman, City University of New York

4C: DRESS AS (MIS)REPRESENTATION (Room 334)
Chair: Laura Morreale, Fordham University

The White Dress: Exposure and Concealment of the Female Body in the German Middle Ages
Martina Feichtenschlager, University of Salzburg

‘Worthliche in wede’: Dressing Body and Soul in The King of Tars
Jo Merrey, University of Western Australia

Gold Noses and False Hair: Cosmetics as Deception or Cure in Medieval Muslim Medicine, Law, and Theology
Kathryn Kueny, Fordham University

4:00 – 4:30 p.m. Coffee/Tea Break

4:30 – 6 p.m. Session 5: Concurrent Sessions

5A: ROYAL WOMEN (Room 333)
Chair: Mary Erler, Fordham University

Dress and Diplomacy: Queenly Garb in Late Medieval Scandinavia and the Construction of Female Authority
Louise Berglund, Uppsala University

The Great Chain of Textiles: Dress, Color, and Hierarchy in the Households of Margaret Beaufort and Elizabeth of York, 1477-1500
Elizabeth McMahon, Bard Graduate Center

At the Crossroads: Imaging King Tamar at Vardzia
Earnestine Qiu, Tufts University

5B: THE FASHION REVOLUTION OF THE FOURTEENTH CENTURY (Room 334)
Chair: Susanna Barsella, Fordham University

The Doublet Revolution: The Social Diffusion of a Male Garment in the Crown of Aragon (14th – 15th Centuries)
Juan Vicente Garcίa Marsilla, University of Valencia

Sumptuous Literature: Clothing, Gender and Governance in Dante, Boccaccio and Petrarch
Kristina M. Olson, George Mason University

‘Where the garment gapes’: Bodies between the Lengths, Layers, and Contours of Dress in Late Medieval Italy
Timothy McCall, Villanova University                                                       

5C: PASSAGES (Room 212)
Chair: Michael Vargas, SUNY-New Paltz

‘In morte voluit esse frater’: A Dominican Defense of professio ad succurrendum and the Economic Role of the Mendicant Habit
Kirsty Schut, University of Toronto

From Kouropalatissa to Piousness: The Inventory of Garments from the Last Will and Testament of Kale Pakouriane
Angela Costello, University of New Hampshire

Three velleti and two lamponi vayrorum: Dresses and Communication of Identity in Late Medieval Milan
Martina Saltamacchia, University of Nebraska, Omaha

6:00-7:00 p.m. Wine Reception

Sunday, March 18, 2019
9:00 a.m. Registration and Coffee/Tea

9:15-10:00 a.m. Session 6: Plenary III (McNally Amphitheater)

Chair: Nina Rowe, Fordham University
Habit Forming: Dress and the Monastic Ideal in Byzantine Society
Jennifer L. Ball, Brooklyn College and the Graduate Center, CUNY

10:00-10:15 a.m. Break

10:15 – 11:45 a.m. Session 7: Concurrent Sessions

7A: ROYAL MEN (Room 333)
Chair: Joel Rosenthal, Stony Brook University

Clothing at the Court of King John of England: Fashion or Uniformity?
Hugh Thomas, University of Miami

Dress, Appearance and Power in Angevin England
Michael Staunton, University College, Dublin

Clothing the Man in Black: Philip the Good and the Expressive Potential of Color
Elizabeth Moodey, Vanderbilt University

7B: ORNAMENTS AND ADORNMENTS (Room 212)
Chair: Kyunghee Pyun, Fashion Institute of Technology

Seals, Dress and Identity in the British Isles, c.1200-1350
John McEwan, Saint Louis University

Hidden Identities: Early Medieval Seal Rings in Life, Death, and Afterlife
Isabel Moreira, University of Utah

Identity in Detail: The Meanings of Metal Decoration on Late Medieval Belts and Purses
Annemarieke Willemsen, National Museum of Antiquities, Leiden

7C: EAST AND WEST (Room 334)
Chair: Tia Kolbaba, Rutgers University

Eastern Mediterranean Dress between Memory and Reality—Case Studies from Commemorative Portraiture
Cristina Stanciou, College of William and Mary

Costume as Identity Marker in Medieval Georgia (6th-10th cc.)
Nina Chichinadze, Ilia State University, Tbilisi

Clothes Maketh the (Wo)man? Dress, Identity, and Society in Lusignan Cyprus
Ioanna Christoforaki, Academy of Athens

11:45 – 12:15 p.m. Break

12:15 – 1:15 p.m. Session 8: Roundtable: Gender and Dress (McNally Amphitheater)

Chair: Sarah Stanbury, College of the Holy Cross
Sarah-Grace Heller, The Ohio State University
Daniel Lord Smail, Harvard University
Laurel Ann Wilson, Fordham University

1:15 – 2:30 p.m. Concluding Lunch (Ticket Required): Plaza Atrium, Leon Lowenstein